A pub crawl around Greater Manchester
An exclusive extract from the new book written by Matthew Curtis, who knows a thing or two about beer having visited 185 different boozers across the region
Tuesday 9 January 2024
NEXT HOME GAME: Walsall – Saturday 13 January, 3pm
NEXT AWAY GAME: Notts County – Saturday 20 January, 3pm
NOTTS COUNTY COACHES:
Bredbury Con Club: 10.30am – £20 – bookings can be made in the Con Club County Coaches group on Facebook
Crofter: 11am – £20 (adults) and £16 (under-14s) – text Steve on 07983 580582 or message Crofter Coaches on Facebook
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Dear County fans, Stopfordians, and anyone else joining us today, a very warm welcome to your Tuesday edition of The Scarf My Father Wore. Make sure you line your stomach with a decent breakfast this morning, because I’m taking you on a mammoth pub crawl.
Actually, to be more precise, Matthew Curtis is the one taking us for a pint or two. He’s the one who’s visited 185 different establishments across Greater Manchester, before writing about those various pubs, bars, taprooms, cafés and bottle shops for his excellent new book, Manchester’s Best Beer Pubs and Bars.
Geographically, the book is split into five areas, and Matthew’s kindly allowed us to include one venue from each today. If you enjoy his style of writing, support a local author (he’s from Lincoln but moved to Stockport in October 2020 with his partner Dianne) by purchasing a copy of the book, and you can then enjoy reading about the other 180 places he’s visited. There’s also a foreword by Andy Burnham, colour photography and detailed maps throughout, as well as background features exploring Manchester’s rich brewing history and modern beer scene. The section on Stockport includes 18 cracking boozers, such as The Magnet, The Arden Arms and The Nursery Inn.
Today’s edition is sponsored by Tate Plastering Services. A big thank you to Gary. Give him a call on 07902 186564 or email gs.tate76@hotmail.co.uk if you’ve got any plastering work that needs doing at the moment.
Finally, I’m currently walking every street in Stockport to raise money for mental health charity Mentell. If you’d like to make a donation to help me reach my target, please click here.
Total distance so far: 46.68 miles
Total steps so far: 83,302
Total raised so far: £1,037
Total completed streets so far: 24 (Click here for the full list, which includes reports and photos from every day of the walk.)
Further information on the walk can be found by clicking here.
Des Junior
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CENTRAL MANCHESTER
The Marble Arch
73 Rochdale Road, M4 4HY
Look down as you enter The Marble Arch and you’ll see the beautifully intricate mosaic floor leading directly to the bar that occupies the far right corner of the entranceway. If you look carefully you’ll notice the floor has a slight gradient to it, and there are some who will tell you it increases ever so slightly the longer you stay in what is undeniably one of Manchester’s iconic pubs.
On one of my first trips to Manchester, visiting this institution felt like completing a pilgrimage, and even though it is now much closer to home, that feeling of anticipation that arises when approaching from Rochdale Road has not stopped. While developers have sought to modernise the surrounding areas, the Arch has remained true to its heritage, having initially been constructed in 1888. This compact red brick building, with its faux-marble facade and pillars that bestraddle the entranceway, feels as though it’s stood here for an eternity.
The pub has changed hands and appearance many times in its century-long lifetime, but it’s under the stewardship of present owner Jan Rogers that it evolved into its present guise. This involved restoring the main bar by removing cladding, revealing the beautiful glazed brickwork that surrounds it, and eventually converting the room behind it into a kitchen and seating area after the brewery was moved out in 2009. One of the most recent developments has been an expansion of its beer garden, which provides a wonderful escape from Manchester’s bustle, and includes heated cabins so you can enjoy it all year long.
The beer offering at the Arch is still predominantly Marble, now brewed at its larger, more modern facility in Salford, but it does on occasion offer guest beers. You’ll also find one of the best cider selections in the city on tap and in bottle, with featured producers regularly including Ross-on-Wye and Ascension of Sussex, among others. It also has an outstanding food offering, which includes a ‘served until it’s gone’ roast on Sundays. If you’re visiting Manchester, an hour or two in the Arch with a couple of pints is an absolute must.
STOCKPORT AND SOUTH MANCHESTER
The Petersgate Tap
19a St Petersgate, SK1 1EB
You could easily argue that Stockport’s strength is in its more traditional pubs, of which it has many. If you’re looking for a more up-to-date option, however, then you could do a lot worse than head to The Petersgate Tap. It was set up by Alan Gent, his wife Carol, and son Chris, and while it looks quite plain from outside, inside you’ll find a bolthole that’s not quite a bar, not quite a pub, and not quite a Belgian café, but somehow possesses the feel of all three. On entering, you’ll find yourself in a long, narrow space, booth seating to your left and a few tables and chairs to your right. A set of stairs near the entranceway leads to an additional seating area, painted in a luscious shade of sky blue.
You’ll find the bar downstairs, at the very end of the room, and from the number of taps lined along its surface, you’ll soon clock a great range of beers, taking in everything from the ultra-modern to the very traditional. For me, the real draw here is the excellent selection of cask beer, which almost always includes a mild. The fridges are worth a gander too, as they are packed with interesting Belgian imports, and one of the best ranges of cider and perry to be found anywhere in Greater Manchester. Keep an eye on its events page, as it regularly hosts beer tastings, where you can properly geek out over the impressive selection.
SALFORD AND TRAFFORD
The Kings Arms
1 Bloom Street, M3 6AN
It’s immediately apparent why this charming boozer was named the city’s best pub in the 2022 Manchester Food and Drink awards. It is treasured both by locals and those happy enough to travel a little further afield to pay a visit. The red brick building curves its way around the mews behind it, with black and gold hand-painted signs hung above the entranceways advertising ‘a choice of real ales’. There are a few spaces inside to settle, depending on your mood, with the main bar buzzing with the chatter of regulars, and a cosy snug if you feel like hiding away from the world for a while.
Interestingly, the pub was leased to The Beautiful South’s Paul Heaton and his partner, Zena Barrie, between 2011 and 2015. The couple put emphasis on the pub becoming a cultural hub for art, music and theatre, and although he’s no longer involved, there are still regular performances in the venue upstairs, as well as throughout the pub, with spoken word, poetry and comedy nights often taking place. There’s also a friendly resident pub cat called Charlie – Chaz to his mates – who might come and say hello while you’re supping an ale.
WIGAN, BOLTON AND BURY
The Raven
5 Wallgate, WN1 1LD
Formerly known as The Raven Hotel after its construction in 1904, this is a ‘proper pub’ in the heart of Wigan town centre. Standing proudly between a betting shop and a takeaway, it has a gorgeous interior that oozes both class and history. The decor is busy, with vibrant red-and-gold floral wallpaper met halfway down the walls by equally garish green tiles, while mahogany pillars support a mezzanine level that hosts a bit of extra seating. You can tell by the way everything is slightly worn, from the floors to the lounge seating, that this is a pub that’s popular with locals, especially those who love their real ale, as there’s an excellent selection of beers on cask from around the UK. A menu of pub classics is available, including – you’ve guessed it – pie, mash and mushy peas, while entertainment is on offer in the form of televised sport, and occasionally a bit of live music at peak times.
ROCHDALE, OLDHAM AND STALYBRIDGE
The Baum
33-37 Toad Lane, OL12 0NU
‘Purveyors of excellence’ is the slogan of this glorious pub, one where I felt immediately at home within seconds of my first visit. Winner of CAMRA’s national pub award in 2013, I could scarcely hide my joy from the moment I entered, my grin stretching from ear to ear as I ordered a pint and settled myself at a table. Pubs like this one effortlessly demonstrate why Greater Manchester’s beer culture is so vital, and it easily ranks among the best traditional pubs in the area alongside the likes of Stockport’s Magnet and The City Arms in town.
If arriving by tram or train, it’ll take you approximately 10 minutes to walk up the hill towards the pub, which is situated next door to Rochdale’s Co-op Museum on the charmingly named Toad Lane. You can tell you’re in for a treat when you arrive outside, a vintage sign hanging above the entranceway displaying an advert that reads ‘Eat Irlam’s Tripe’. You may or may not be pleased to know that tripe doesn’t feature on the classy menu, which is a notch or two above what you’d probably consider typical pub grub. That’s just one of the many things that makes The Baum so special.
Heading through the door, the pub immediately splits in two directions, right taking you to a compact and secluded seating area, while heading in the other direction will lead you to the bar. The beer selection, while not excessive, provides the perfect amount of choice between real ales and modern keg beers, with local beers from breweries such as Pictish and Phoenix appearing alongside some national brands. More seating is dotted around the bar area, which is low-lit and clad in comforting brown panelling, decorated with various brewery ephemera. Head through to the back and you find a far brighter, more modern feeling conservatory area, mostly used for dining. Through a pair of double doors there’s a decent sized beer garden too.
The Baum is a pub that’s more than worth going out of your way for. I’d even go as far as to say you’ll be planning a return visit before you’ve finished your first beer. Another interesting fact: buried in the churchyard opposite is one Hamlet Nicholson, a local shoemaker who, in 1860, invented the modern cricket ball. There’s something you can impress your friends with next time you have to get a round in.
Click here to purchase your copy of Matthew’s book.
Today’s sponsor: Tate Plastering Services
Now Christmas is done and dusted, you might be starting to think about jobs around the house that need doing.
If you’ve got any plastering jobs that need taking care of, give Gary a call on 07902 186564 or email gs.tate76@hotmail.co.uk.
Photo of the day
Somewhere in Portugal
County fan Ian Holland is currently on holiday in Portugal, and bumped into this familiar face in a bar!
Today in SK
🍺 Food and drink
Whether you like it hot or cold, head down to Coffee Block (SK1) to get your matcha fix. 8am - 5.30pm.
The Nelson Tavern (SK1) have a great range of offers throughout the week, including £4.50 for drinks off the Doubles Bar, a comprehensive range of shots for £2, and 3 for £6 on Jägerbombs.
Ignore the “beer police” and support your local pub in January. If you’re in Stockport today, pop into The Petersgate Tap (SK1) for a drink or two.
Lite bite meal deal at The Friary (SK3). Cod or haddock, served with chips, and a side of peas, curry or gravy. Plus tea or coffee. £9.95. Open till 7.30pm.
Tapas Tuesday at TRUNK (SK7) from 5pm. All tapas dishes are 3-for-2 (cheapest dish free). Call 0161 222 9260 to book a table, and mention “The Scarf My Father Wore” to receive a 15% discount off the normal tapas menu.
🎱 Free pool
The George & Dragon (SK7). 6pm - 9pm.
The Scarf My Father Wore works closely with venues on a daily basis to bring you the most comprehensive guide to all of the best offers and events taking place across the whole SK region. Click on the links below for full details of everything taking place in your area over the next few weeks.
SK1 / SK2 / SK3 / SK4 / SK5 / SK6 / SK7 / SK8 / SK9 / SK10 / SK11 / SK12 / SK13 / SK14 / SK15 / SK16 / SK17 / SK22 / SK23
Random County fan of the day #9 – Liam Root!
One final thing before you go… if you’re looking to learn to drive in January, or lose a few pounds after Christmas, or even get some work done at home, please contact our fantastic advertisers!
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🖌 Painter & Decorator: BGM Decorators
🧱 Plasterer: Tate Plastering Services
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🛖 Roofing: ADM Roofing Services Ltd
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100% recommend buying ‘Manchester’s Best Beer Pubs and Bars’
The Stockport and South Manchester section has some brilliant beer destinations ! I’m working my way through them👍🤣👍🤣👍🤣.
Pre match this Saturday I’ve booked on ‘The Runaway Brewery ‘ Tour down on Astley Street, SK4 1AW. It’s behind the old ‘Pineapple’ pub, not the one on Castle street.
Matthew describes it as ‘ ulilitarian yet charming’ , I will drink to that! This is where the ‘Cheers, Thank You!’ Beer sold in the County Courtyard is brewed 💙